Strategic mindset
In avalanche-prone backcountry areas, knowing where not to go is as crucial as knowing where to go. This concept is central to managing avalanche risk, with decisions made before venturing out being essential for safety. Experienced guides have developed strategies that consistently reduce risk. One of these strategies is called the strategic mindset. Roger Atkins, a heli-ski guide working for Canadian Mountain Holidays, formalized this into a framework that has become a cornerstone in avalanche risk management, especially in North America . This strategic mindset is now widely adopted across the North American guiding and avalanche industry, influencing professional teams and avalanche bulletins. The seven operational mindsets —from "Assessment" to "Open Season"— help guide decision-making. The approach is a mental framework that guides the evaluation of conditions, terrain, and risks. It involves considering factors like visibility, avalanche hazards, snow, weather conditions, and other natural hazards, such as glacier crevasses and cornices. The framework is all about assessing the hazards and ensuring the guides have the same understanding and situational awareness. At the guide meetings in Norway, the framework is used to support three key risk reduction measures:
- Identifying uncertainty and agreeing on information that is needed to reduce the uncertainty.
- Suggesting a mindset that matches the current conditions.
- Discussing what terrain to seek and what terrain to avoid.
| Mind-set | Typical Conditions | Typical Operating Strategy |
|
Assessment (Check it out) |
There is a high degree of uncertainty about conditions, such as when first encountering the terrain for the season, entering new terrain, following a lengthy period with limited observations, or after substantial weather events. |
Observe and assess. Information gathering. Select conservative terrain in |
|
Stepping Out (Step it up) |
Conditions are improving and/or we are gaining confidence in our assessment. The ‘stepping out’ mind-set covers a range from stepping out very cautiously to stepping out confidently. Stepping out cautiously occurs when there is limited confidence in extrapolation from the available observations, for example when persistent slab instabilities are becoming less easily triggered and for large storm instabilities in the early stages of recovery. Stepping out confidently occurs when one is confident to extrapolate from the available observations |
Consider steeper options. Conditions allow expanding into more dangerous terrain. When stepping out cautiously, it |
|
Status Quo (No change) |
There is no substantial change in conditions, the evidence continues to support the current hazard assessment, and the comfort level for exposure under these conditions has been reached |
Continuing conditions. We expect no major change from the previous day. Change nothing and continue |
|
Stepping Back (Pull Back) |
Weather changes increase the hazard or when events or observations cause uncertainty about the validity of the existing assessment. A small step back may result from minor or subtle weather changes while substantial weather events or observations of unexpected avalanches may result in a large step back |
Change in situation. Increased hazard. Seek safer terrain. The typical strategy when stepping back is to close terrain that |
|
Entrenchment (Keep it mellow) |
Dealing with a well-established persistent instability. Entrenchment is not a preferred operating mode and requires discipline to sustain it for the necessary time; this is the last resort short of closing operations completely |
Typically, a situation with a prominent persistent weak layer and/or situation with a great deal of uncertainty. Limit skiing to a small terrain |
|
Open Season (Fell free) |
The hazard assessment suggests that only small avalanches are possible in very isolated terrain features, and there is a high degree of confidence in the hazard assessment |
Most terrain safe. Stable conditions and low uncertainty. Any skiable terrain may be considered with due attention to the |
|
Spring Diurnal (Time it) |
The hazard assessment suggests that the only substantial hazard is from wet avalanches during the afternoon thaw phase of the diurnal freeze-thaw cycle |
Adjust terrain to temperature cycle. Watch closely for adequate |
Read the full article from ISSW2014 here